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Potential Problem
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Possible Reason
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Solution
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No voltage going to the clutch.
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Wiring connector not seated properly.
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Pull apart and re-seat connector.
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No voltage or low voltage coming from the battery.
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Check with voltmeter, battery should be 8-16 volts. (Assuming 12
volt battery.)
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Defective charging system.
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Fix charging system.
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Lead wire cut or broken internally.
(Example)
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Fix or replace lead wire. If destroyed, replace clutch.
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Fuse blown.
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Replace fuse.
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Defective switch operating clutch.
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Replace the switch.
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If voltage is going to the clutch, but the clutch will still
not engage.
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Coil open or shorted.
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Check coil with ohmmeter. A range close to 3 to 4 ohms should be
present at an ambient coil temperature of 70°F. Replace coil.
(Example)
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Check coil voltage to make sure it is compatible with the voltage coming
in. (If voltage is too high, this could cause the coil to burn out.)
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Change battery or coil to meet your requirement.
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Rotor/armature air gap too large.
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If straight bore, air gap can be readjusted. If unit has set screws, bottom out armature hub against field then back off to .1" and retighten set screws. If spacer on straight bore, reduce width of the spacer. If taper bore clutch, tap on armature cover to close gap.
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Burnt out coil caused by frictional contact (rotor strike). If so, coil will be discolored, can
be cracked, burnt or epoxy can be melted.
(Example)
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Replace coil.
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Clutch engages, but load will not engage.
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Rivets or springs broken.
(Example)
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Replace clutch.
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Key missing.
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Put in key.
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Armature could be warped because of heat due to slippage. This means it
will pull in, but will slip when a load is supplied. Clutch should
show signs of heat.
(Example)
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Replace clutch and determine why it slipped.
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